"My goal was to score the best waves ever at home with my teammates. It has been a dream for me to get that wave filmed and some pictures on the wing - and get the best clips of the island!
It was amazing, but frightening at the same time, because I didn’t know what to expect, if I made a little mistake. The sound of the wave, when it closed was scary and the amount of water coming was crazy!"
"While I was waiting for the camera crew and the boys, I tried to get confident in the wave. I thought it would be good, to surf only the outside of the lips and not take any risk till the camera is on. Still, I ended up being straight in the impact zone, not on purpose, and I probably took one of the gnarliest wipeouts of the year.
I stayed on the inside for two big sets, and after that, my legs were shaking the whole session. It made me lose my confidence until Wesley and Matchu gave me a pep talk and made me realize that this was a situation of a lifetime. Thanks to them, I was able to drop a few more bombs, before getting on the plane."
"On my biggest wave, I took the risk to look behind me to see the face of the monster and I was looking in a massive barrel where the spit was incredibly strong. You see nothing, so you just go and you hope the lip isn't going to smash you.
The pictures are incredible and so is the video. I enjoyed the session a lot. But now I realize nobody was wearing a helmet or an impact vest. We were only using a leash on the wing. We got very lucky nothing happened. It's the first time I had that feeling that something really bad can happen... next time I will think more before I go and wear protection!"
One for the Books
Photos by Samuel Cardenas and film by Pablo Amores